Three Things: Apolis

Doing good never looked this good. Apolis, a term that translates to 'Global Citizen', is a brand built around the intriguing concept of empowerment. Quite simply, Apolis acts as a window of opportunity rather than charity, working with producers around the globe to co-create products whose shelf life is then determined by the markets they are given access to. A clean and rugged aesthetic can clearly be found throughout, and there's no disputing that each item has been executed in true artisanal fashion. However, it isn't just the products that draw me towards Apolis, but also the compelling story to be told behind one, adding a rich context in areas where most of today's brands wouldn't take a second look. 

1. Apolis + Frenchtrotters Market Bag $68
2. Indigo Wool Chore Jacket $298
3. Khaki Chambray Tie $58
All now available from apolisglobal.com

A. Sauvage for Dr. Martens

With a penchant for fusing progressive details with age-old tailoring techniques, homegrown designer A. Sauvage injects a dose of this radical elegance into his upcoming collaboration with rebellious footwear brand Dr. Martens. Here he presents four key styles in a striking video entitled 'The Student', featuring Craig Roberts - of Submarine fame.

Collection available for A/W12
http://www.drmartens.com

Nigel Cabourn AW11

Forty years on, Nigel Cabourn has certainly cemented his position as a maven in the Menswear game. Famed for statement outerwear, Cabourn draws inspiration from an impressive archive containing over 4,000 heritage pieces of uniform and workwear, to recreate an impressive account of eras gone by. Throw in a strict commitment to traditional English manufacturing techniques that guarantees the highest level of integrity and durability, and it's no wonder that Cabourn produces some of the most coveted Menswear clothing in the world today.

Having said this, it must be duly noted that his garments aren't merely objects of desire, they are also feats of functional design - true investment pieces that almost command appreciation. However, it's the backstory behind each detail painstakingly incorporated that I find the most fascinating. Take the Coastal Command Jacket for example, where the stunning hand-painted hoods draw inspiration from the vibrant colours worn by British World War One coastal commanders, so they could easily identify each other in the dark.

View the collection now at LN-CC, and take a look at the video below to hear the rundown on the new collection from the man himself.

Image & Video Source: LN-CC
Coastal Command Jacket and King George Coat available now from LN-CC

Heritage Research, Oliver Spencer, +J

A set of Monday delectables from Heritage Research, Oliver Spencer, and +J for Uniqlo.

A winner reworked: Heritage Research's hugely popular Longline Parka has been updated with a fresh two tone colourway and notable contemporary lines, whilst still retaining all the sublime functional details.

Bold knits: This season's Bedford Waffle Panel Crew Knit is certified proof of Oliver Spencer's penchant for no-fuss quality modern menswear.

Clean minimal: Jil Sander's goes out with a bang with her final +J collection, featuring trademark space-age shapes and sharp tailored lines. And you can't really go far wrong with these Wool Flannel Stripe Trousers.

Image Sources: Heritage Research, Oi Polloi, Uniqlo

Parka available from End, Jumper available from Oi Polloi, Trousers available from Uniqlo.

MAN Spring/Summer 12: Shaun Samson, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller

Since the inception in 2005, Fashion East / Topman's MAN showcase has certainly marked its strength on the London Fashion Week schedule, proving the turning point for such emerging Menswear visionaries as Cassette Playa, JW Anderson, Christopher Shannon, and Katie Eary. Now comfortably in its 13th season, Hidden Agency has produced a series of short films to coincide with the SS12 show, showcasing garments and highlighting inspirations behind each designers' collection. Check them out below.

Californian born Shaun Samson went back to his roots for SS12, with the vibrancy of the 90's grunge and surf era channeled into a heady mix of psychedelic stripes and weighty hand-loomed Mexican blankets - there's no denying this is modern streetwear at its utmost finest. View the SS12 show here.

Returning for a third season at MAN, Martine Rose also harks inspiration from the west coast through the 70's Californian skate and surf scene, resonating with its carefree and rebellious nature via sheer shirts layered over neon brights and tropical prints worn with wide cropped bottoms. View the SS12 show here.

With a succinct focus in the technicality of aesthetics, it's hard to fault Matthew Miller's enigmatic entry into MAN. Sharply formed silhouettes crafted from 3D computer-aided-design and pioneering materials take prominence in this collection, presenting a statement product that is interestingly both understated and dramatic. View the SS12 Show here.

On The Cobbles: Cos Foamy T-shirt

Three seasons in, and London Fashion Week is just as daring/unashamed/pioneering as the last time I left it. I headed into the scrum last Friday for another go-around on the cobbles, and whilst I was officially there clocking up time, it was really a chance for another bi-annual schooling in the art of style from people who undeniably get it. Top marks go to this gent for incorporating (what I strongly suspect is, please correct otherwise) the Foamy T-shirt from Cos. The garment's technical attributes act as a striking counter to the patterned shirt underneath - and is certainly typical of what I've come to love about Cos; a strict minimal aesthetic with a playful approach to texture, in turn upholding an admirable design ethos that is both timely and timeless.

Photo taken by my colleague David
Available now at Cos

Carhartt Heritage F/W11 Launch at Goodhood

Carhartt have always been known for its rugged functionality, a trait that has seen it transend effortlessly from humble beginnings in workwear to being almost omnipresent in the streetwear game. This season will see East London's Goodhood store carry the Carhartt Heritage brand for the first time, and to celebrate, they've put together a look book showcasing the best pieces from the collection, as well as unveiling an exhibition featuring Carhartt's back catalog of heritage pieces in the the only way they know best - a good old knees up. Keep scrolling for a snippet of what they've got to offer and details of the launch.

Collection Available from Goodhood

Albam Slim Leg Jean: 4 months in

Below are a pair of Albam Slim Leg Jeans that I've been wearing a good 4 days a week (give or take a few) for the past 4 months. The fading and wear line process has been a slow gradual process, with faint lines and fading now apparent in the crotch area, along with more defined lines behind the knee. However, the sign of a quality pair of jeans lies in how well they age, and they've lost the uncomfortable rigidity that is part and parcel with raw denim, making everyday wear an altogether enjoyable affair. The pair below have also yet to go for a swim, so will be interesting to see how they fare after that.

Available now at Albam

Three Things: 2808

This week's coveted comes from SEH Kelly, Alfred Sargent, and Norse Projects

Functional Beauty: SEH Kelly's fawn cotton-drill tour jacket - a shining example of no-nonsense English construction

Hints of heritage: Alfred Sargent makes a mark of distinction in eye-watering walnut with the Monkstrap Brogue.

Keeping the classics fresh: Norse Projects embrace a more rural lifestyle by incorporating traditional wool and tweed in their hat offering for AW11.

The Jacket You Need In Your Life: Albam Weekend

It hasn't taken long for independent label Albam to establish itself as a veritable name on the British menswear circuit. This is thanks primarily to their philosophy of 'Modern Crafted Clothing' - an ethos that couldn't hold more true to their offering - and whilst the idea of contemporary British styling with a clean aesthetic is hardly a game changer, combine it with the sublime form and honest craftsmanship that their garments are reputed for, and you're onto a winning combination (just ask their rapidly expanding base of loyal enthusiasts).

The Weekend Jacket has been constructed with a compact cotton poplin, heavily washed to create a worn in feel. It is however, in my opinion, the detachable waxed cotton hood that gives this jacket an edge, creating a structured contrast to the overall relaxed nature of the garment.

Wear it with: Acne Classic Poplin Shirt, Omar Kashoura Itched Trouser

Available now from Albam

The Watch You Need In Your Life: Uniform Wares

It's a good period in the timepiece stakes. The brash and ostentatious watches of yesteryear have seemingly had their day, paving the way for a new aesthetic in time telling. Cue Uniform Wares, whose firm grasp on 'classic British design and contemporary styling' have influenced their utilitarian take on the wristwatch - stripping it down to the core functionalities to create a piece that is uncluttered, yet striking in its simplicity.

This 200 Series Calendar model certainly makes light work of being a coveted item, and whilst it may not send out an SOS signal at the flick of a switch, build features such as the aircraft grade stainless steel case and Italian calf leather strap make this a staple for anyone who simply wants their watch to, well, be a watch.

Wear it with: Band of Outsiders Button Down Shirt, APC Military Short

Available now at Oi Polloi. £220

Scenes From London Fashion Week AW11

London Fashion Week is undoubtably one of the strangest events to visit, where stopping to ask a complete stranger to photograph their shoes is considered common practice, and people watching isn't just a passing hobby - it's a sport. True, some of the outfits that grace the cobbles down at Somerset House would cause even the most liberal to raise an eyebrow, but casting all pretences aside, there's no denying that it attracts some of the most interesting, sartorially minded, detail driven people this city has to offer.

Norse Projects F/W11 Lookbook

Setting a precedent with previous offerings, it was really no surprise that the latest Autumn/Winter drop from Danish label Norse Projects would be a strong one. Their penchant for uncluttered and functional clothing is very much a recurring theme, in a collection that simply epitomizes Nordic simplicity. However, notability can really be attributed to the colour palette used. With hues of vibrant citrus to deep purples, they have used tones that would feel more at home in a Spring/Summer lookbook, which in turn drives home the impeccable construction of their range.

Back In The Game

You may have realized that there's been a rather lengthy (ahem, four month) silence around here.

Sorry.

Please accept my sincere apologies with this behind the scenes vid of the recent Gaga x Terry Richardson shoot for Supreme. Suffice to say, it's pretty NSFW.

Three Things: Wallpaper, Norse Projects, Hermès

Today's Three Things feature a rehearsal video from Wallpaper, Norse Project's new denim range, and a youth targeted viral from Hermès.

WALLPAPER'S INDIAN SUMMER DESERT SESSION

Watch as Indie funk duo Wallpaper take feelgood and place it on a pre-medicated dose of steroids. Their drive through the barren Nevada desert is an enviable location for a rehearsal studio, and their nostalgia laden track 'Indian Summer' - with its infectious carefree nature harking 'best of summer' memories -  plays the perfect accompaniment.

NORSE PROJECTS WHITE SELVEDGE

With an appreciation for the uncluttered aesthetic, Danish brand Norse Projects makes its first foray into denim with trademark Scandinavian clarity. Constructed with 13.5oz white selvedge denim produced exclusively for the company at their European factory and a Norse Projects pin for understated adornment, the range encompasses three fits: Regular Straight, Slim Straight, and Tapered.

Image Source: http://www.norsestore.com/

HERMÈS FINGERBOARD VIRAL

Just when you thought you had earmarked fingerboards as a crazy childhood fad, French high fashion house Hermès revives the 90's playground toy to showcase their collections in an uncharacteristic tongue-in-cheek light. As the words 'Hermès' and 'Viral' in the same sentence represent a somewhat alien affair, the brand will have to wait on bated breath to see if the video resonates well with its younger target audience.

http://www.myspace.com/wallpaper
http://www.norseprojects.com/
http://www.hermes.com/

Three Things: S.E.H Kelly, Azealia Banks, Nanamica

This long overdue Three Things features menswear craftworkers S.E.H Kelly, rising star Azealia Banks, and the aesthetically minded Nanamica.

S.E.H KELLY AW 2010 - BOOK No.1

Operating under a strict 'Made in England' credos, a mark that almost guarantees heritage and superb workmanship, S.E.H Kelly has made a resolute inception into the field of menswear. The pieces from their Autumn/Winter collection emanate an unperturbed quality, succinctly paying homage to the unwavering attention given in the production process - from inspiration taken from their experience on Saville Row, to sourcing trusted relationships for every garment component with selected local suppliers.

Image Source: S.E.H Kelly

AZEALIA BANKS - L8R

Burgeoning talent Azealia Banks looks set to leave an unabashed mark on the hip hop industry. Armed with a razor sharp tongue and an insouciant swagger to match, L8R leaves us with a unrelenting bass pleasing snippet of her lyrical prowess. Attention grabbing gimmicks don't make the cut in her repertoire, delivering a distilled rawness that is almost unheard of amongst her peers.

NANAMICA CYCLE PACK

Renowned for handling the premium Purple Label for The North Face, Japanese label Nanamica once again demonstrate their tenacious affinity towards technical functionality and austere simplicity with their  Fall/Winter 2010 Cycle Pack. Made from Cordura Nylon, the pack's stark uninterrupted design is a prime example of utilitarian aesthetics.

Image Source: Present London

http://www.sehkelly.com/
http://www.myspace.com/azealiabanks
http://www.nanamica.com/

Tim Soar Spring/Summer 2011

Apologies for the silence around here the past week, a combination of manic days, lazy nights and one boozy weekend in Sweden has resulted in, well, a neglected blog. The following are some photos I took of the Tim Soar SS11 show on Menswear day at London Fashion Week. Proving a refined craft for immaculate and contemporary tailoring, Tim Soar's latest collection takes inspiration from David Bowie's character 'Mr Newton' in the seventies film The Man Who Fell To Earth. Without screaming an archaic ode to the era, wide lapels, long lines and big flares take prominence within the collection, described by the man himself as 'the New Wave utilitarian aesthetic'. A bold statement perhaps, but the beauty of the collection lies in his penchant for technicality - utilising an eclectic fabric palette that samples knit, welded PU, new and recycled denim, and Tyvek to present selected iconic styles of the disco decade with a delicate, understated, and updated twist.

The full set follows.

Three Things: Idiot Glee, Backyard Bill, Roy Slaper

Today's three things for your viewing pleasure come in the form of Idiot Glee's spine-tingling vocals, the work of Backyard Bill, and master of his craft Roy Slaper.

IDIOT GLEE - AIN'T NO SUNSHINE (BILL WITHERS)
Kentucky native James Friley's (otherwise known as Idiot Glee) haunting vocals deliver a new dimension of angst, whilst conjuring up images of smalltown USA, in this cover of Bill Withers' legendary tale of heartbreak and love lost. Make sure you pen down October 4th, the day of his debut release 'All Packed Up' on Moshi Moshi records.

BACKYARD BILL

A site mercifully at the whim of the personal style of it's subjects, Bill photographs a selection of eclectic individuals wearing outfits that they feel most comfortable in, and in turn presents a set of pure visuals defined by the people themselves. The photo below, that belongs to a set of photos that embody the notions of freedom, is taken from his latest work with Happy Socks.

Image Source: Backyard Bill

ROY SLAPER

One to whet the whistle's of any denim enthusiasts out there, this video enters the studio of artisan and aficionado Roy Slaper as he labouriously undertakes the painstakingly intricate production process of a pair of handcrafted denim jeans. Ensuring that each pair is custom made to individual specifications, it's no wonder that Roy has no problems with disgruntled customers breaking down his door to seek their money back.

http://www.myspace.com/idiotglee
http://www.backyardbill.com/
http://www.roydenim.com/

Spring Fashion Film presents 1880

Contrasts play the focus in this stunning short by Spring Fashion Film. Washed out summer tinged hues convey a playful nature to the video, with the almost blank canvas of the 'girl in the white dress' juxtaposing against her vibrant surroundings, it emphasises themes of innocence and childlike exploration as she interacts with the serene environment. There is an impressive attention to detail demonstrated in this film, and the adept use of Bokeh and slow Pan-and-Zoom at the right moments help create something that is both aesthetically beautiful and striking in delivery.

http://www.springstudios.com/

Heritage Research Modified Longline Parka

Utilitarian and timeless are two words that are permanent fixtures in Heritage Research's brand vocabulary. With an ethos that is based around producing traditional rugged garments that match contemporary aesthetics, details play an integral part in the way they work - right down to the painstakingly sourced original fabrics to enlisting only masters of the craft for their production methods. This Modified Longline Parka is a standout piece from the A/W 2010 collection, made from Wax Millerain cotton, and is a prime example of their devotion to functionality and workmanship. Available now along with the rest of the collection at Oi Polloi.

Image Source: Oi Polloi

http://www.heritageresearch.co.uk/
http://www.oipolloi.com/