Nigel Cabourn AW11

Forty years on, Nigel Cabourn has certainly cemented his position as a maven in the Menswear game. Famed for statement outerwear, Cabourn draws inspiration from an impressive archive containing over 4,000 heritage pieces of uniform and workwear, to recreate an impressive account of eras gone by. Throw in a strict commitment to traditional English manufacturing techniques that guarantees the highest level of integrity and durability, and it's no wonder that Cabourn produces some of the most coveted Menswear clothing in the world today.

Having said this, it must be duly noted that his garments aren't merely objects of desire, they are also feats of functional design - true investment pieces that almost command appreciation. However, it's the backstory behind each detail painstakingly incorporated that I find the most fascinating. Take the Coastal Command Jacket for example, where the stunning hand-painted hoods draw inspiration from the vibrant colours worn by British World War One coastal commanders, so they could easily identify each other in the dark.

View the collection now at LN-CC, and take a look at the video below to hear the rundown on the new collection from the man himself.

Image & Video Source: LN-CC
Coastal Command Jacket and King George Coat available now from LN-CC

Heritage Research, Oliver Spencer, +J

A set of Monday delectables from Heritage Research, Oliver Spencer, and +J for Uniqlo.

A winner reworked: Heritage Research's hugely popular Longline Parka has been updated with a fresh two tone colourway and notable contemporary lines, whilst still retaining all the sublime functional details.

Bold knits: This season's Bedford Waffle Panel Crew Knit is certified proof of Oliver Spencer's penchant for no-fuss quality modern menswear.

Clean minimal: Jil Sander's goes out with a bang with her final +J collection, featuring trademark space-age shapes and sharp tailored lines. And you can't really go far wrong with these Wool Flannel Stripe Trousers.

Image Sources: Heritage Research, Oi Polloi, Uniqlo

Parka available from End, Jumper available from Oi Polloi, Trousers available from Uniqlo.

MAN Spring/Summer 12: Shaun Samson, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller

Since the inception in 2005, Fashion East / Topman's MAN showcase has certainly marked its strength on the London Fashion Week schedule, proving the turning point for such emerging Menswear visionaries as Cassette Playa, JW Anderson, Christopher Shannon, and Katie Eary. Now comfortably in its 13th season, Hidden Agency has produced a series of short films to coincide with the SS12 show, showcasing garments and highlighting inspirations behind each designers' collection. Check them out below.

Californian born Shaun Samson went back to his roots for SS12, with the vibrancy of the 90's grunge and surf era channeled into a heady mix of psychedelic stripes and weighty hand-loomed Mexican blankets - there's no denying this is modern streetwear at its utmost finest. View the SS12 show here.

Returning for a third season at MAN, Martine Rose also harks inspiration from the west coast through the 70's Californian skate and surf scene, resonating with its carefree and rebellious nature via sheer shirts layered over neon brights and tropical prints worn with wide cropped bottoms. View the SS12 show here.

With a succinct focus in the technicality of aesthetics, it's hard to fault Matthew Miller's enigmatic entry into MAN. Sharply formed silhouettes crafted from 3D computer-aided-design and pioneering materials take prominence in this collection, presenting a statement product that is interestingly both understated and dramatic. View the SS12 Show here.

On The Cobbles: Cos Foamy T-shirt

Three seasons in, and London Fashion Week is just as daring/unashamed/pioneering as the last time I left it. I headed into the scrum last Friday for another go-around on the cobbles, and whilst I was officially there clocking up time, it was really a chance for another bi-annual schooling in the art of style from people who undeniably get it. Top marks go to this gent for incorporating (what I strongly suspect is, please correct otherwise) the Foamy T-shirt from Cos. The garment's technical attributes act as a striking counter to the patterned shirt underneath - and is certainly typical of what I've come to love about Cos; a strict minimal aesthetic with a playful approach to texture, in turn upholding an admirable design ethos that is both timely and timeless.

Photo taken by my colleague David
Available now at Cos

Carhartt Heritage F/W11 Launch at Goodhood

Carhartt have always been known for its rugged functionality, a trait that has seen it transend effortlessly from humble beginnings in workwear to being almost omnipresent in the streetwear game. This season will see East London's Goodhood store carry the Carhartt Heritage brand for the first time, and to celebrate, they've put together a look book showcasing the best pieces from the collection, as well as unveiling an exhibition featuring Carhartt's back catalog of heritage pieces in the the only way they know best - a good old knees up. Keep scrolling for a snippet of what they've got to offer and details of the launch.

Collection Available from Goodhood

Albam Slim Leg Jean: 4 months in

Below are a pair of Albam Slim Leg Jeans that I've been wearing a good 4 days a week (give or take a few) for the past 4 months. The fading and wear line process has been a slow gradual process, with faint lines and fading now apparent in the crotch area, along with more defined lines behind the knee. However, the sign of a quality pair of jeans lies in how well they age, and they've lost the uncomfortable rigidity that is part and parcel with raw denim, making everyday wear an altogether enjoyable affair. The pair below have also yet to go for a swim, so will be interesting to see how they fare after that.

Available now at Albam

Three Things: 2808

This week's coveted comes from SEH Kelly, Alfred Sargent, and Norse Projects

Functional Beauty: SEH Kelly's fawn cotton-drill tour jacket - a shining example of no-nonsense English construction

Hints of heritage: Alfred Sargent makes a mark of distinction in eye-watering walnut with the Monkstrap Brogue.

Keeping the classics fresh: Norse Projects embrace a more rural lifestyle by incorporating traditional wool and tweed in their hat offering for AW11.

Jamie XX - Beat For

Jamie XX has certainly brought the strength with 'Beat For', the dark bass laden B-side to his debut solo effort 'Far Nearer'. A track with such sublime construction would almost make you think he has the Midas touch, so don't be surprised to find it doing multiple rounds through your speakers this week.

Jamie xx - Beat For (limited vinyl & download out now - http://farnearer.com) by Numbers

The Jacket You Need In Your Life: Albam Weekend

It hasn't taken long for independent label Albam to establish itself as a veritable name on the British menswear circuit. This is thanks primarily to their philosophy of 'Modern Crafted Clothing' - an ethos that couldn't hold more true to their offering - and whilst the idea of contemporary British styling with a clean aesthetic is hardly a game changer, combine it with the sublime form and honest craftsmanship that their garments are reputed for, and you're onto a winning combination (just ask their rapidly expanding base of loyal enthusiasts).

The Weekend Jacket has been constructed with a compact cotton poplin, heavily washed to create a worn in feel. It is however, in my opinion, the detachable waxed cotton hood that gives this jacket an edge, creating a structured contrast to the overall relaxed nature of the garment.

Wear it with: Acne Classic Poplin Shirt, Omar Kashoura Itched Trouser

Available now from Albam

The Watch You Need In Your Life: Uniform Wares

It's a good period in the timepiece stakes. The brash and ostentatious watches of yesteryear have seemingly had their day, paving the way for a new aesthetic in time telling. Cue Uniform Wares, whose firm grasp on 'classic British design and contemporary styling' have influenced their utilitarian take on the wristwatch - stripping it down to the core functionalities to create a piece that is uncluttered, yet striking in its simplicity.

This 200 Series Calendar model certainly makes light work of being a coveted item, and whilst it may not send out an SOS signal at the flick of a switch, build features such as the aircraft grade stainless steel case and Italian calf leather strap make this a staple for anyone who simply wants their watch to, well, be a watch.

Wear it with: Band of Outsiders Button Down Shirt, APC Military Short

Available now at Oi Polloi. £220

Scenes From London Fashion Week AW11

London Fashion Week is undoubtably one of the strangest events to visit, where stopping to ask a complete stranger to photograph their shoes is considered common practice, and people watching isn't just a passing hobby - it's a sport. True, some of the outfits that grace the cobbles down at Somerset House would cause even the most liberal to raise an eyebrow, but casting all pretences aside, there's no denying that it attracts some of the most interesting, sartorially minded, detail driven people this city has to offer.

Norse Projects F/W11 Lookbook

Setting a precedent with previous offerings, it was really no surprise that the latest Autumn/Winter drop from Danish label Norse Projects would be a strong one. Their penchant for uncluttered and functional clothing is very much a recurring theme, in a collection that simply epitomizes Nordic simplicity. However, notability can really be attributed to the colour palette used. With hues of vibrant citrus to deep purples, they have used tones that would feel more at home in a Spring/Summer lookbook, which in turn drives home the impeccable construction of their range.

Back In The Game

You may have realized that there's been a rather lengthy (ahem, four month) silence around here.

Sorry.

Please accept my sincere apologies with this behind the scenes vid of the recent Gaga x Terry Richardson shoot for Supreme. Suffice to say, it's pretty NSFW.